KidNMe Performance

BMS 300cc Buggy

My "08" BMS 300cc

Really cooking now!

Testing out the TriOval Exhaust. This pipe is really, really sweet. I like the fact that I can take out the endcap to make it louder or leave it in so I don't tick off the neighbors :-)

150cc AC CDI/Coil Combo

I installed the KidNme CDI/Coil combo and got much better starting and a smoother top end! Super strong spark!

Drive by exhaust pic

The pipe sounds really cool and adds to the power of my Yerfdog!

Yerfdog Spiderbox 150cc

Jarod w/ Son N Daughter out in the Garage

Me, getting my future race drivers an early start in Performance mods!

Momma helps out!

Everyone gets involved at our house! :-) Here, Momma hit the gas while I check to be sure everything is installed correctly before taking our buggy for its first test spin.

Taking it for a test spin!

One of the best reasons for upgrading your CVT is for Doughnuts!
Shorty Clutch Kit and DR2 Variator from KidNme.

My first thoughts on these performance parts were with small expectations, as I knew I would gain some torque with the Shorty Clutch weighing in almost 2 lbs under stock, but I never thought it would be the gains I now have. So I went ahead and purchased a Shorty Clutch kit from Tom and the Performance pulley with racing belt. Prior to installing these I took the buggy on its previous performance clutch and variator and ran it on some pretty rough trails to make sure I was pushing it to its max potential. Results were ok but I wanted more climbing power as I was unable to get up a couple hills and also wanted some more top end since I was currently GPS at 32mph on asphalt at roughly 10~15 degrees. So once I received the Shorty Clutch kit and performance pulley kit, me and the kids went out as soon as we could to see if these parts actually did what Tom said they would.
The install itself was very easy until I replaced the cvt cover and the buggy would not move, couldn’t even push the thing!!! After some posts on Buggynews.com the guys there helped me to figure out that it was the cooling fins on the bell that was grabbing the cvt cover. To solve that problem I just got the dremel out and started grinding down the fins inside of cvt cover…..PROBLEM SOLVED Thanks BUGGYNEWS!!!!!.

After the Shorty clutch and performance pulley setup was installed it consisted of;
Shorty Clutch with stock clutch arm springs, 1500 main spring;
Old performance variator with 12g sliders.
RESULTS were AWESOME!!!! Buggy was now taking off almost instantly after hitting accelerator, not only that but I was literally spinning out on hard ground sliding sideways in buggy. I decided to take it through the same course as I did with the previous setup and had no problems getting up the previous hills I couldn’t before, it was almost like I had a larger motor.
I did notice that not only did I keep my top end but I gained 2~3 mph per GPS on same road now running top speed 34~35 mph. So I decided to experiment a little and threw in a set of 14g sliders I had lying around. Now this really impressed me as I still kept my low end and could still climb the same hills, BUT I picked up another 1~2mph now putting me at 36~37 mph per GPS on same asphalt road at roughly 10 ~ 15 degrees climb.

After the results with the Shorty and me being a former Drag Racer I wanted more and had heard a lot about the DR2 Variator, so I called Tom up and ordered one. Once I received the DR2 I immediately went to work and threw it on, I started off with 9 and 10 g rollers as it seemed a lot of people that had it were running this setup. My results from the 9 and 10 were minimal so I started playing with different variations and ended up using a set of 14g rollers for top end and 11g rollers for bottom. That setup gave me the best of both worlds on my buggy, I not only retained my top end but again same road GPS’d at 39 mph going up the 10~15 degree and actually hit 41 mph coming down it.

Never thought I would ever reach that speed but I have used the same GPS at least a dozen times with the same results. My torque is still crazy; I get instantaneous response and will literally spin the tires and slide the buggy from a dead stop. I am climbing the hills with ease and haven’t ran into anything yet I couldn’t get up, now obviously I am not rock climbing or anything crazy but I am going up some steep embankments with loose dirt and making it every time.

In my HONEST opinion the CVT mods from Tom at KidNme have made my buggy a whole new machine that has held up to a lot of abuse, donuts, pulling the 4 wheeler when it wouldn’t run, as well as me just running the dirt out of it.
If I had to do it all over again I would definitely buy the Shorty, DR2, Performance Pulley and Racing Belt again!!!! THANK YOU KidNme!!!!

CVT cover modification

My CVT cover has the ribs that KidNme talks about that are hitting the scoops on the Shorty performance bell. A simple mod fixes that problem.
I used a dremmel tool to grind off a 1/8" of those ribs. It doesn't hit by much but enough that I had to grind it down just a little.
Before starting your buggy, try rolling it back and forth with the cover on to see if yours hits then mod it as I show in my video.

Installing the CVT kit in a box

Jeff's Joyner 250cc 2

Jeff turned his 2 seater into a single seater! His contribution to the buggy world comes in the way of our CDI/Coil combo. Some machines with a tachometer have an issue with a signal not being sent to the tach causing it not to function. Jeff has figured a way to make it work! We are now building a version that will eliminate this problem but for those of you who have bought the previous version, this is a great fix!

CDI/Coil rewire to get tach to work

CDI/Coil Combo Installation keeping factory tachometer Read all instructions and view all pictures before starting.
1. Disconnect positive cable from battery.
2. Locate CDI and unplug from connectors.
3. Unwrap electrical tape to expose wires for CDI connectors. 3”- 4”
4. Carefully remove heat shrink tubing from connectors on new CDI/Coil Combo.
5. Compare 2-pin connector on new cdi/coil to the 2-pin connector on wiring harness. 2-pin connector on veh. harness should have only one wire. Write down its color. In my 2008 Joyner Sand Viper that wire is blue. Cdi/coil combo has two wires. Black wire matches empty spot in veh connector. Red wire lines up with single wire from harness.
6. Compare 4-pin connectors and write down which colors from harness connector will plug into cdi/coil connector. In my 2008 Joyner 250 Sand Viper: 4-pin connections Vehicle connector: New CDI/Coil Combo connector: Gray / Black stripe White Black (next to gray/blk) Green Black terminal soldered to Green Purple Empty (Purple wire in SV goes to original coil and factory tach)
7. Mount new CDI/Coil Combo.
8. Cut connectors from cord on new cdi/coil, removing excess wire length or keep as long as you like.
9. Carefully remove the outer insulation (2”- 3”) to expose 4 wires in cdi/coil cord.
10. Cut Black wire so only 1” sticks out of cdi/coil’s cord. Tape off end of black wire. Black wire from new cdi/coil combo is NOT USED.
11. At the vehicle’s 2-pin connector carefully separate (do not cut) the single wire from the rest of the wires in the unwrapped portion of the harness.
12. Use a Splice Lock connector and attach the red wire from new cdi/coil to the single wire in the 2-pin connector. Clamp on splice 2” from 2-pin connector.
13. In the vehicles harness separate out the wire that matched up in the 4-pin connector with the white wire from new cdi/coil.
14. Again use a splice lock connector and attach the White wire from new cdi/coil to the wire matched up earlier in the 4-pin connector, 2” from 4-pin connector.
15. Separate out of the wiring harness at vehicle’s 4-pin connector the wire that will match up with the new cdi/coil’s Green wire.
16. Yes, use a splice lock and attach the new cdi/coil’s Green wire to the wire matched up in the vehicles 4-pin connector.

Wire config 1

Pics of Jeff's rewire project

Wifre config 2

Pics of Jeff's rewire project

Wire config 3

Pics of Jeff's wire config

CDI/Coil Combo Install

Step 1 Replaced stock plug with Iridium plug resulting in smoother idle.

Step 2 Replaced CDI and coil with CDI/Coil combo.


Made a pouch from sheet rubber mounted on frame left side of engine with access to adjustment.Engine started quicker , had to adjust idle speed. Idle speed had lowered , don;t know why.

Adjusted carb for as much fuel as possible.

Scooter runs Better, smoother , felt more acceleration to 50 mph and my scooter dealer agreed . It still is cranky to start 4 tries usually and have to warm it up Several minutes before taking off.


Step 3 Replaced carb main jet with a very mild upgrade from a 110 to a 117.5 It is not necessary to totally remove carb from scooter to do this .


Drain the carb . A shiny screw at front bottom of carb when loosened drains the fuel bowl from a fitting on back of carb which has a hose extending to underneath scooter so just put a can down to catch gas no messy rags to deal with .

Leaving all hoses and throttle cables on, loosen carb gently pulling it out of rubber manifold turning it gently sideways to remove fuel bowl 4 screws have a rag handy remove bowl then remove main jet (its the one in the extension).


Put new jet in and put back together . I advise to put a VERY light coating of silicone lube paste on inside of rubber manifold it makes it easier to align carb into notch at top of manifold. Know that it takes a bit of cranking to get carb refilled so only crank a few seconds at a time resting starter between each time , this isn;t the time to burn out starter . Patience pays off.


Now it fires up first time idles well can take off almost immediately with cold engine. The BOG on initial acceleration is gone and am able to slowly and steadily increase engine, I;m in traffic remember, speed is easily steadily maintained without continually rocking on the throttle like I used to.


Now it scoots up to 55 (the speed limit on loop north around town) and maintains cruising at 55, smooth as can be.
99% of my riding is a mix of intown 30 & 45 and country roads not safe enough to go over 45- 50 that there is no point in trying to make my scooter capable of running 70 on the interstate.
It now tops out at 67-68 more than enough for this old speed nut on 10 inch tires!

My normal riding experience is SO more enjoyable from start-up ,to cruising the streets , to stuck in traffic, to blasting around the loop. Having a capable machine in changing circumstances is what it is all about!

and THANKS to KidNme (Tom) for his patience ,the great parts, the super how-to videos and his patience (He gave me extra) I have it.

THANK YOU TOM .



Harold Hagler

Leather CDI Pouch

CDI in custom pouch

CDI & Pouch Installed

Easy to make and looks cool too! :-)

Overflow bottle

Harold has come up with an ingenious remedy to the Crankcase overflow tube. Simple and stylish! :-)

Mounting rods

Harold used some all-thread and a couple nuts and washers to mount his CVT cover so he doesn't have to fish those long bolts through the cover any more. Simply use all-tread and some loctite to hold them and now it's easy to take your cover off and on. The all-tread is between 115-120mm long

Accessories

Look at all the electronics! When do you get time to look at the road Paul? AND a cup holder!!! Hope that's for bottled water! :-)

Nifty hatch for the CDI!

All sorts of little access hatches on this scooter!

Nautilis Air horn

Now THATS a horn! Get out of my way!!!!!!

Freedom 250cc Scooter

Bob has taken his stock roller weights and drilled them out to make 18 grams ones out of them! Very Prototester like :-)

He tells us that for every 10 thousandths he shaved off, equaled 1 gram. Good to know!

With our new Vented variator that comes with 18 gram rollers soon to be installed, this should be a great fit for him.
We also sent him a set of 21 gram rollers because we think he can pick up a couple mph with our variator without sacrificing the low end torque he'll get with his new variator. We'll see!
By the way Bob, Nice looking ride!

Testing setups

So far what I have found is that the vented variator seems to work best with the 18 gr sliders. Keep in mind at this point I have my stock clutch/spring set-up in my scooter. <P>


The roller type weights just didnt have the same aggresiveness or back shifting speed in the vented variator set-up. Maybe that will change when I get the shorty and try different springs. <P>


My hole shot test is a stoplight to stoplight dragstrip across 4 lanes and I have clear start and end markings on the pavement. I wait for the green light and hammer down till I reach the markings on the road on the other side. The beauty of this is I'm not in speed violation when I get acroos the intersection..well,,not yet anyways. <P>


The vented variator and the 18 gr sliders had the best speed across my test area, at 31 mph and gave me very good reserve power. The cost of this setup is in fuel as the engine is crusing at a higher rpm to make the same speed as compared to stock. <P>


Back to the round rollers. I tried the 18 and 21 gr rollers in my stock variator. The 18's gave me 30 mph with a higher cruising rpm's and the 21's gave me 28 mph across my test area with a lower cruising rpm's. I also tried a combination,,meaning 3-18's and 3- 21's, this was predicable at 29 mph. <P>


Best aggressive performance as of right now is with the 18 gr sliders in the vented variator.
Overall streetablilty at this point went to the 21 gr rollers in my stock variator. It gave excellent torque on the bottom end, had a nice although somewhat soft mid-range, and a very nice pull from 40 mph and above. Engine rpm's were also down do what I know as normal so I'm quite sure milage will be right back where its supposed to be,,meaning above 60mpg which I normally see. <P>


When I was running the 18 gr sliders in my stock variator I did not have the performance I get from the 18gr sliders in the vented variator, although close. That set-up gave me that reserve power I talk about with 72 mph on the hwy but dropped mpg to 50. I am starting to think that 20 or 21 gr sliders in the vented variator would give me that pull on the bottom end like I get with the 21 gr rollers in my stock variator and give an aggressive mid-range and bring economy back up. <P>


I think tomorrow I might put the blue spring in the clutch and work again with the vented variator. The longer less aggressive ramps might work well with the longer softer spring.