Clutch Kits

What is my Clutch and why would I mess with it?

Your clutching system is a big part of your power transfer to the wheels and is made up of basically, 4 parts. Changing these can make a world of difference if it's done right!
We'll cover them all!


Your Clutch works in conjuction with your Main Spring, bell housing and rear pulley but it also get its instructions from your front pulley.
As your Variator (Front Pulley) squeezes your drive belt up the 2 variator faces towards top speed, it pulls your drive belt further down into your rear pulley causing it to turn. The further down in the rear pulley the belt goes, the faster you go.

Keeping your belt Higher on the variator and lower in the rear pully is your Top speed

and
Keeping it Lower on the variator and higher in the rear pulley is your
Take off speed.


Just like your roller weights control the opening and closing of your front Variator, your main (Torque) spring controls how quickly or slowly this happens in the rear.

 
Think of it this way,

Your front and rear pulleys are
playing "tug o' war" with your drive belt.
When one has it, the other can't so,
equalizing this transition to your liking and staying within the parts limits, are the goal to your performance upgrades.

Your roller weights control how quickly the variator takes the belt up the front pulley
and your main spring determines how quickly your rear pulley will let it have it. Keep that belt low in the variator and takeoff improves but going too far with weights and springs in either direction, will cause you to start tearing up belts, clutches etc because both sides can't have all the belt at the same time!



A 1000 main Spring is closest to what you have stock in most cases.
By installing a heavier Main Spring, you make it tougher for the rear pulley to open and relinquish the belt to the front pulley. This keeps you in a
higher rev/ low end torque range longer by keeping that belt on the outer edge of the rear pulley thus, low in the variator! Great for quicker takeoffs and climbing hills!


Check out our selection of CVT Parts



Your Rear Pulley

There aren't really any mods yet when it comes to your rear pulley because no one has done anything with one, up until now!

KidNme now has a 150cc Performance rear Pulley (Sorry, no 250cc version yet) that opens up just a couple mm's more than stock, allowing your belt to go a little lower in your rear pulley and a little higher in your variator.
Remember, the lower in the belt goes into the rear pulley, the higher up on your variator your belt goes, the more top speed you get!
Since your stock drive belt is only just so long, we've made a slightly larger belt and made it out of Kevlar. Our 757 Kevlar belt (Replaces your stock 743.20.30 for more top speed but is not necessary, just better!!


Our Performance Pulley is super simple to install and really adds to your top end! Watch this Members video on the gains he got after installing it!

A major breakthrough in bolt on performance!
This will fit most GY6 150cc Scooters &  buggies such as Tank, Baja, Yerf, Hammerhead, Kinroad/Runmaster, BMS, Adly, Roketa and more!

A


Your Clutch N Bell

YOUR CLUTCH N BELL

Your CLUTCH is made up of 3 main parts. The Clutch arms, clutch springs and bell housing.

3 Arms with little brake pads on them make up your clutch. As your rear pulley spins faster, centrifugal force pulls against the 3 arm springs and the arms open up. (The springs don't discnnect or change color like in the picture, we used 2 different clutches to demonstrate, just to show you an open clutch ! :-) ) There is only about 1'8th of an inch between these arms and the bell housing that surrounds them so once they spread out just a little, they make contact with your bell and your wheels begin to turn.

A stock clutch starts with about a 1000 arm spring installed. By using a heavier spring in your clutch, you change how much force it takes before those arms make contact with the bell. The longer you hold off that contact, the better take off you get. Hold it off too long and your arm pads will slip on the inside surface of the bell housing as the bell struggles to catch up the the speed of the clutch at the high rpms. This will cause excessive heat in your CVT and quicker pad wear.


 >
 Buy the Shorty 250 clutch

Our 250 folks are seeing the same numbers with their Shorty Kit as our GY6 version!
Innovative light weight design means more speed, more torque! The stock system weighs in at over 5 lbs, while our Short version weighs only 3.5 lbs!!
Rotating mass is the hardest to remove, and reducing weight in this area leads to faster engine spin up and more torque reaching the wheels instead of it being soaked up spinning a heavier clutch pack.

We have this kit in our own machines and during a test-and-tune rally ,our members were shaving 2 seconds off a 300' uphill run and a few gained over 2 mph on their top end!!! Here are the actual Test times and testimony from one at that outing...

Tests were run on a .5 mile, "U" shaped asphault track with a 12-15 degree incline, 10 Runs Stock (Left) 10 runs with the Shorty Installed (Right) in a 250cc Mini Buggy.

1:03:18      -    0:54:36
1:02:58      -    0:53:54
1:03:34      -    0:53:16
1:03:28      -    0:53:44
1:02:35      -    0:55:36
1:04:00      -    0:53:28
1:02:58      -    0:53:49
1:01:55      -    0:54:07
1:02:25      -    0:53:46
1:03:11      -    0:53:13
1:03:02      -    0:53:52
0:09:50 Average gain!

KidNme,
As far as the clutch goes I'm solidly impressed with the performance increase from the hole shot and throughout the powerband. Responsiveness going into the 90 degree turn and coming back out feels like the clutch was able to shift more rapidly and recovered better coming out of the turn. I believe this can be clearly seen in the huge decreases in times averaging + 9 second gains in a .5 mile run.

What I've noticed with the Shorty clutch is an increase of torque coming out of the hole from a solid stop even with the stock main spring. This I'm sure accounts for a percentage of the time gain. The second thing I noticed was the clutches ability to shift down faster going into the corner and its ability maintain a more constant speed throughout the corner. Where with the stock clutch I was only able to maintain 30 mph through the corner, with the shorty, we saw an increase to 32-33 mph (this is on a 20 mph hairpin). Again this accounts for another increase in a percentage of the time gained. And the last thing I observed was a faster recovery coming out of the corner and into the grade to get to top speed, where previously my top speeds where 46 mph, with the Motorio clutch we were reaching 48 mph on the top end. Keep in mind this is on a 12-15 degree incline!

Thank You!
--Overthehill--

Buy the Shorty 250cc clutch